11/20/09

Entry # 2, 11.20.09

We have now been in Cuenca for almost two weeks, and for the past five days, our new apartment. I will not discuss how much the rent is, because most of you who are reading this live in California or New York. Nonetheless, we are happily settled into a small two bedroom apartment in downtown Cuenca, about six blocks from the town square. I enrolled in Spanish class this past week and have just completed my first five days of education. My teacher Rafael Mendez is a 24 year-old native Cuencano who has been fantastically patient with me. They could not pay him enough to respond kindly to the various animal-like utterances that have emanated from my mouth over the past week. He also was generous to offer retribution should the gentleman who groped Becca the other day while jogging decide to repeat offend.

There is much to say about our experience here, but our reviews are entirely dependent on the mood that precedes the commentary. Thus, here are two reviews of Cuenca and Ecuador so far, each written from distinct emotional perspectives.

Review #1
Cuenca is loud, the air is filled with exhaust, and the drivers all seem to have homicidal intent when they get behind the wheel. Pedestrians have the rights of squirrels, and Becca has already begun to do research on local hospital care in anticipation of the first collision. Many of the locals have not been particularly friendly, which has been frustrating for us, especially considering our stereotypes about hospitable Latino culture. The men, in particular, seem to reserve their most dignified behavior for Becca when she is alone. These experiences have led Becca to be especially interested in volunteering at a local domestic violence shelter. Furthermore, vegetarianism is not easy, and some of the basic American comforts are more elusive here. The river, which looked really beautiful during my online research, is shallow and somewhat dirty, and we have nicknamed it El Rio Basura.

Review #2
Things are going great here. We found a really cute apartment in an attractive part of the city, and it is equipped with swanky furniture, a sweet little balcony, and a spare bedroom reserved for those of you who visit. It is an amazing luxury to be housed each month for the price of an elaborate dinner at Chez Panisse. The landlord may be the nicest man ever, and he and his wife have been incredibly welcoming towards us. They brought us over dinner for no reason the other night and have planned a camping trip for us in the next week. Their 10 month-old son is also a perfect outlet for Becca's maternal energy. We have met some other generous and kind Ecuadorians, and there is a nice communal feel in this manageably sized city.

The hills that surround the city are lush and beautiful, the weather is perfect, and there is a great national park 20 miles away. I play basketball in an arena that seats at least 6,000 people, and I almost always have it to myself. Becca has found some enticing volunteering opportunities, as well as some yoga studios with neat classes. I can get a lentil burger or a dozen roses down the street for a dollar. The mangoes are sweeter than gummy bears. We are learning about a new and fascinating culture and grateful to see the world through a different lens.